What is a water heater thermocouple

A thermocouple is a device that’s made of 2 different strips of metal that are attached. It is installed so that its end is in the pilot light of the water heater burner. The thermocouple detects the heat from the pilot light.

Should the pilot light go out accidentally the thermocouple will automatically shut off the gas valve. This prevents gas from flooding the combustion chamber and causing an explosion.

The thermocouple performs its job through a thermoelectric effect known as the Seebeck effect. This is when two separate types of metal in proximity to each other generate electrical voltage in proportion to the heat they sense. The higher the heat around the two metal pieces, the higher the voltage.

The thermocouple in a gas water heater is designed to keep the gas valve open through its electric voltage. If the pilot light goes out, the loss in heat causes the voltage between the two pieces of metal to drop, and this shuts the valve and reduces the combustion risk.

The thermocouple is a simplistic approach to water heater safety. When it begins to fail a replacement will be necessary. With our new sealed combustion chamber water heaters a call to your local Lee’s Summit plumbers at Advocate Master Plumbing would be wise.

Resetting electric water heaters

Resetting the high limit switch on an electric water heater is a simple and straightforward process that can help to restore proper functioning to the unit. The high limit switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the power to the water heater if the water temperature becomes too high. This helps to prevent overheating and potential damage to the unit.

You can locate the high limit switch near the top of the water heater, near the thermostat under the removable cover. The thermostat us a black, rectangular electrical connection. The reset button is usually a round, red button. You simply press it in. This will start your water heater back up. You’ll hear a slight hissing noise coming from the tank. This indicates the heating element is working.

After you have reset the high limit switch, it is important to check the water temperature to ensure that it is at the proper level. If the water is still too hot, it may be necessary to adjust the thermostat to a lower setting.

It’s important to note that if the high limit switch keeps tripping, it may indicate a more serious problem with the water heater, such as a faulty thermostat or a malfunctioning heating element. If this is the case, it may be necessary to call a professional to diagnose and repair the issue.

It’s also important to note that if the water heater is too old or showing signs of rust and corrosion, it may be time to replace it. A new water heater will be more energy efficient and will provide more consistent hot water.

In conclusion, resetting the high limit switch on an electric water heater is a simple and straightforward process that can help to restore proper functioning to the unit. By following the steps outlined above, you can easily reset the switch and ensure that your water heater is running safely and efficiently. Remember to always take the necessary safety precautions when working with electricity, and if you encounter any issues that you are not comfortable troubleshooting, always feel free to call your local Lee’s Summit water heater repair specialist at Advocate Master Plumbing.

Toilet leaking into ceiling

This week one of my regular Lee’s Summit plumbing customers complained of a water leak in their ceiling from a toilet. They were upset not only because of the possible damage to their ceiling. But also because they’d had another company reset the toilet just last year.

I asked if they had a new tile floor installed in the bathroom. They said they had. It was done last year. They had the remodeler reset the toilet.

I told them that this is a common problem. The remodeler had installed tile that was thicker than the old flooring tile. This raised the top of the floor above the toilet flange. This creates a gap between the bottom of the toilet & the toilet flange to which it connects.

This gap can create leaks when the toilet is flushed. The wax seal between the bottom of the toilet and toilet flange is compromised.

Most remodelers & inexperienced plumbers will install two toilet wax rings to fill the gap. But this is only a temporary solution. The wax will sag & begin to leak after one to three years. This creates a gap in the wax seal and the toilet begins to leak.

Unfortunately this amount of time is beyond the average warranty. So the remodeler or plumber never hears of the mistake. And they can’t learn from it. They continue the poor practice and the customer calls me.

A toilet flange should be just slightly above the bathroom flooring. To fix their problem I pulled the toilet. I installed a toilet flange extension on top of the toilet flange and reset the the toilet.

I apologized to my customer for the inconvenience created by the remodelers mistake. And I explained to them that even experienced plumbers are convinced stacking wax rings is a correct method.

Installing copper water pipes underground

Yesterday one of my regular Lee’s Summit plumbing customers referred me to their son in law. He needed a bar sink drain & copper water pipes relocated.

Their location under the basement slab & in the middle of the room was cumbersome. They didn’t need a bar. They needed a play area for their kids. So out comes the jackhammer.

Some considerations before moving these pipes are the elevation of the drain pipe & connecting copper water pipes for underground applications.

A drain pipe relocation is limited by the need for a quarter inch per foot grade of the pipe. Without this it won’t drain properly. And you don’t want the horizontal sections of pvc drain pipe embedded in the concrete if you can help it. If the drain pipe is already close to the under side of the slab there may not be enough room for an extension.

Copper water pipes can’t be soldered underground. The movements of the ground with changing seasons & varying moisture levels could compromise a solder joint. So you’re left with the options of connecting to the existing copper water pipes with pack joint couplings or brazing the pipes.

Pack joint couplings for joining underground copper water pipes are a pretty simple but expensive option. The specialty underground water pipe connectors can run as much as fifty dollars a piece.

Brazing is similar to soldering. But with a copper to copper connection no flux is needed. You use a special brazing rod & heat the pipes to about fifteen hundred degrees. A temperature close to coppers melting point.

Being a master plumber & Lee’s Summit plumbing contractor I’ve brazed before. So I chose the less expensive option. And I feel it’s a stronger joint. Plus it’s kind of fun.

I got to jackhammering quickly. I opened a small trench about eighteen inches wide & three feet long to the exterior wall. Then I hauled away all the large chunks of concrete. I saved the crushed rock & small pieces of concrete for backfill.

Unfortunately, the previous contractor had run 3/8″ soft copper tubing to save money. But fortunately the 1/2″ soft copper tubing I brought had the same inside diameter as the 3/8″ copper tubing outside diameter. So I just slid the new pipe over the old & brazed away.

After brazing the two copper tubes, and burning myself of course, I rolled out the copper tube to the exterior wall. I left about a foot of pipe above the slab grade & soldered caps on the ends.

Now you’re not suppose to put water pipes on an exterior wall in the Midwest. They could freeze. But these will be left in the wall below the frostline for possible future connection. So there was no risk of freezing.

I then connected to the existing ABS drain pipe with a rubber transition coupling & ran pvc pipe to the exterior wall. ABS pipe is known for cracking issues. I left a one foot section above grade & capped it.

After taking pictures of the work for my customer, before covering it, I graded the drain pipe and backfilled with the crushed rock & small pieces of concrete I’d just removed. Then I finished the concrete with a two inch cap of cement. It will be a foot traffic area only. So there’s no need for a thicker layer of cement.

I told my customer to leave it alone for one to two days before covering it. Then I texted him the pictures of the project at each stage. He should see what he’s paying for, after all.

My wife asks me all time why I still do concrete work at my age. But I like it. And I run my plumbing business from my home. So I’m working for my neighbors. And it’s better for them to get a master plumber bid & do the work. The other local Lee’s Summit plumbing companies have journeyman level or apprentice plumbers doing the work under the umbrella of the business owners plumbing license. I want the best for my neighbors.