Advocate Blog

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Resetting electric water heaters

Resetting the high limit switch on an electric water heater is a simple and straightforward process that can help to restore proper functioning to the unit. The high limit switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the power to the water heater if the water temperature becomes too high. This helps to prevent overheating and potential damage to the unit.

You can locate the high limit switch near the top of the water heater, near the thermostat under the removable cover. The thermostat us a black, rectangular electrical connection. The reset button is usually a round, red button. You simply press it in. This will start your water heater back up. You’ll hear a slight hissing noise coming from the tank. This indicates the heating element is working.

After you have reset the high limit switch, it is important to check the water temperature to ensure that it is at the proper level. If the water is still too hot, it may be necessary to adjust the thermostat to a lower setting.

It’s important to note that if the high limit switch keeps tripping, it may indicate a more serious problem with the water heater, such as a faulty thermostat or a malfunctioning heating element. If this is the case, it may be necessary to call a professional to diagnose and repair the issue.

It’s also important to note that if the water heater is too old or showing signs of rust and corrosion, it may be time to replace it. A new water heater will be more energy efficient and will provide more consistent hot water.

In conclusion, resetting the high limit switch on an electric water heater is a simple and straightforward process that can help to restore proper functioning to the unit. By following the steps outlined above, you can easily reset the switch and ensure that your water heater is running safely and efficiently. Remember to always take the necessary safety precautions when working with electricity, and if you encounter any issues that you are not comfortable troubleshooting, always feel free to call your local Lee’s Summit water heater repair specialist at Advocate Master Plumbing.

Electric water heater upper thermostat reset button
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Toilet leaking into ceiling

This week one of my regular Lee’s Summit plumbing customers complained of a water leak in their ceiling from a toilet. They were upset not only because of the possible damage to their ceiling. But also because they’d had another company reset the toilet just last year.

I asked if they had a new tile floor installed in the bathroom. They said they had. It was done last year. They had the remodeler reset the toilet.

I told them that this is a common problem. The remodeler had installed tile that was thicker than the old flooring tile. This raised the top of the floor above the toilet flange. This creates a gap between the bottom of the toilet & the toilet flange to which it connects.

Toilet leaking into ceiling
Toilet flange below flooring

This gap can create leaks when the toilet is flushed. The wax seal between the bottom of the toilet and toilet flange is compromised.

Most remodelers & inexperienced plumbers will install two toilet wax rings to fill the gap. But this is only a temporary solution. The wax will sag & begin to leak after one to three years. This creates a gap in the wax seal and the toilet begins to leak.

Unfortunately this amount of time is beyond the average warranty. So the remodeler or plumber never hears of the mistake. And they can’t learn from it. They continue the poor practice and the customer calls me.

Toilet flange riser
Toilet flange extension

A toilet flange should be just slightly above the bathroom flooring. To fix their problem I pulled the toilet. I installed a toilet flange extension on top of the toilet flange and reset the the toilet.

I apologized to my customer for the inconvenience created by the remodelers mistake. And I explained to them that even experienced plumbers are convinced stacking wax rings is a correct method.

Uncategorised

Installing copper water pipes underground

Yesterday one of my regular Lee’s Summit plumbing customers referred me to their son in law. He needed a bar sink drain & copper water pipes relocated.

Their location under the basement slab & in the middle of the room was cumbersome. They didn’t need a bar. They needed a play area for their kids. So out comes the jackhammer.

Some considerations before moving these pipes are the elevation of the drain pipe & connecting copper water pipes for underground applications.

A drain pipe relocation is limited by the need for a quarter inch per foot grade of the pipe. Without this it won’t drain properly. And you don’t want the horizontal sections of pvc drain pipe embedded in the concrete if you can help it. If the drain pipe is already close to the under side of the slab there may not be enough room for an extension.

Copper water pipes can’t be soldered underground. The movements of the ground with changing seasons & varying moisture levels could compromise a solder joint. So you’re left with the options of connecting to the existing copper water pipes with pack joint couplings or brazing the pipes.

Pack joint couplings for joining underground copper water pipes are a pretty simple but expensive option. The specialty underground water pipe connectors can run as much as fifty dollars a piece.

Brazing is similar to soldering. But with a copper to copper connection no flux is needed. You use a special brazing rod & heat the pipes to about fifteen hundred degrees. A temperature close to coppers melting point.

Being a master plumber & Lee’s Summit plumbing contractor I’ve brazed before. So I chose the less expensive option. And I feel it’s a stronger joint. Plus it’s kind of fun.

I got to jackhammering quickly. I opened a small trench about eighteen inches wide & three feet long to the exterior wall. Then I hauled away all the large chunks of concrete. I saved the crushed rock & small pieces of concrete for backfill.

Unfortunately, the previous contractor had run 3/8″ soft copper tubing to save money. But fortunately the 1/2″ soft copper tubing I brought had the same inside diameter as the 3/8″ copper tubing outside diameter. So I just slid the new pipe over the old & brazed away.

After brazing the two copper tubes, and burning myself of course, I rolled out the copper tube to the exterior wall. I left about a foot of pipe above the slab grade & soldered caps on the ends.

Now you’re not suppose to put water pipes on an exterior wall in the Midwest. They could freeze. But these will be left in the wall below the frostline for possible future connection. So there was no risk of freezing.

I then connected to the existing ABS drain pipe with a rubber transition coupling & ran pvc pipe to the exterior wall. ABS pipe is known for cracking issues. I left a one foot section above grade & capped it.

After taking pictures of the work for my customer, before covering it, I graded the drain pipe and backfilled with the crushed rock & small pieces of concrete I’d just removed. Then I finished the concrete with a two inch cap of cement. It will be a foot traffic area only. So there’s no need for a thicker layer of cement.

I told my customer to leave it alone for one to two days before covering it. Then I texted him the pictures of the project at each stage. He should see what he’s paying for, after all.

My wife asks me all time why I still do concrete work at my age. But I like it. And I run my plumbing business from my home. So I’m working for my neighbors. And it’s better for them to get a master plumber bid & do the work. The other local Lee’s Summit plumbing companies have journeyman level or apprentice plumbers doing the work under the umbrella of the business owners plumbing license. I want the best for my neighbors.

Copper water pipes underground, brazing
Rerouted Bar Sink Piping
Burst pipes

Frozen pipe solutions

The Lee’s Summit area recently went through a polar vortex. This isn’t too uncommon for us, unfortunately. As it came, the phones began to ring at Advocate Master Plumbing.

I had many conversations with scared home owners. The usual issue of frozen pipes or worse burst water pipes would be a discussion I’d repeat many times in the coming days. I’d begin each conversation with the same detailed & methodical questions.

What kind of water pipes do you have? If you have frozen pex pipes it’s unlikely you’ll have burst piping issues. Pex is a memory plastic that is burst resistant. Just get warm air around the affected plumbing fixtures and they should thaw without any damage.

If you have copper or other rigid plastic water piping you could have a problem. Water changing state from liquid to solid creates pressures in excess of 100,000 psi. I’ve seen large commercial bronze water valves that looked like a mortar shell blew through them.

Is your frozen plumbing fixture above a cold garage? If so, open the door between your house & garage. Then place as many electric space heaters as you have in the garage. Leave the plumbing fixture affected turned on while someone is home. When the pipes thaw you’ll hear it.

Is your whole house without water? If so, this is likely a frozen water meter. This can easily be thawed by putting a halogen lamp or drop light into the water meter pit & sealing around the water meter lid with towels or blankets. Leave a faucet on while someone is home. It may take a few hours but it will thaw.

Fix the problem rather than leaving water running. In the spring find where the cold air is infiltrating your home and seal the air leaks. You may need heat tape and pipe insulation if you have a crawl space. Repair damaged water meter lids & rings. Be sure to get enough dirt around the meter ring that the meter lid is just above the dirt.

Owning a home is expensive and complicated sometimes. Insulate your home properly. Seal around house utility penetrations. Seal around your garage door.

I wouldn’t have a plumber in my house if I could avoid it. You do the same. But if you need help always feel free to call me. I’m Jerry Miller. I’m a master plumber and owner/operator of Advocate Master Plumbing.

Water Heaters

Recent water heater installation

This week I had one of my plumbing customers request a water heater installation. I had done quite a bit of work on their home. But this time they threw me a curve.

They had a 50 gallon natural gas water heater in a closet in their garage. This isn’t uncommon in the Lee’s Summit area. What was uncommon was that the floor drain the furnace & water heater had next to them was under the water heater.

Apparently they had a chronic clog issue with the floor drain. And to access the drain they had cut a hole in the basement wall directly behind the water heater & furnace to unclog it.

This was an unsafe situation since there was a basement bedroom & the opening between the garage and the house. Also, the water heater & furnace need to be seperated from a sleeping space. This is due to the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Water heater installation, water heater repair, hot water heater replacement
Old floor drain
Hot water heater installation, hit water heater replacement, water heater repair
Finished work

My only option was to remove the water heater & relocate the floor drain. This allowed free access to the drain for maintenance purposes. And they could seal the hole in the wall for safety.

So I broke up the garage floor, dug up the floor drain & piping, removed the old drain & replaced it with a new pvc drain pipe & floor drain. Then I backfilled around them & repaired the concrete.

Then I was able to replace their water heater. I installed a new gas shutoff & thermal expansion tank to boot.

I told my customer afterward that I was going to go home & have a good cry before I cleaned up. It was a tough day! But I was proud of the work I did. And they were very happy.

Water Heaters

What’s the best water heater temperature setting

If you search online for the best water heater temperature setting you’ll find multiple answers. There will be many different arguments for and against a temperature setting. I doubt many studies have been done. But I can give you my two cents.

The best water heater temperature setting

After 27 years in the plumbing trade I’ve seen a lot. The temperature setting on your water heater is a personal decision. But what factors dictate the best water heater temperature setting.

  • Comfort – Your preference.
  • Water heater recovery – Lower temperature settings are easier to maintain.
  • Disease – Lower water heater temperature settings may promote disease.
  • Scalding – Children & special needs people can be scalded.
  • Energy efficiency – The hotter the temperature the lower the efficiency.
  • Calcification – The higher the temperature the faster hard water deposits in the tank.

My professional opinion is 120 degrees.

Why set your water heater temperature setting to 120 degrees

As a plumber I’ve found that most people can be comfortable with a hot water temperature of 120 degrees. If you want a hotter shower just take shorter showers and set the temp higher.

Most manufacturers recommend a setting of 120 degrees for the calculated recovery time. This just means the water heater will keep up better at this temperature.

I’ve not heard of anyone in my customer base getting ill due to a low water heater temperature setting. That doesn’t mean it hasn’t happened. But it’s pretty unlikely.

The reason I usually mention for keeping the temperature setting to 120 degrees is to protect kids from scalding themselves. This also applies to seniors & disabled folks.

I know that energy efficiency kind of goes out the window when you’re only talking about 3 to 5 percent savings over a year for every 10 degrees lower it’s set. But we all do want to be environmentally responsible where we can.

The other important reason I mention for keeping your water heater temperature at the manufacturers recommended setting is it will extend the life of your water heater. The hotter it’s set the faster hard water deposits in the bottom of gas water heaters or on the electric water heater heating elements.

How do you set your water heater temperature

It can be difficult to adjust the temperature on a standard water heater. If I’ve ever worked on your homes plumbing you’ve probably heard me snivel about plumbing manufacturer engineers. They just don’t seem to be able to translate their ideas to real world problems. So they over complicate a simple thing. Plumbing is simple. Plumbers are simple. Let’s keep it that way. But for now, lets look at how to adjust the temperature on your standard water heater.

How to adjust the temperature on an electric water heater

An electric water heater actually has two temperature settings. They have an upper and lower heating element. And so they have an upper and lower thermostat. And although they’re made unnecessarily difficult to access, they do at least put numbers on the dials. You’ll need to remove an upper and lower tin cover. Set both thermostats to the same temperature: 120 degrees.

How to adjust the temperature on a gas water heater

For some reason unknown to me manufacturers insist on making this complicated. If you look at the gas valve at the base of your gas water heater you’ll see the round temperature dial. The labels on them aren’t in degrees. Instead they have either arrows or letters. As a rule, line the arrows up with each other or set the arrow on hot. The “A”, “B”, and “C” settings above that are higher temperatures in 10 degree increments.

When to adjust your water heater

A water heater should normally just be left alone. The plumber that installs water heaters will set it up. But if you’re leaving your home for an extended period it might be worth setting the temperature to its lowest setting. It’ll save you money. And sometimes if it’s an exceptionally cold winter you might want to raise the water temperature up 10 degrees to compensate for the colder water supply.

Who to call for water heater repair and installations

You’ll find that other trades advertise water heater installation and repairs. But if you want a qualified water heater tradesman, call a plumber. We know how to install and repair water heaters. We also know why it’s done that way. There are many safety considerations. For more information check out the Advocate Master Plumbing water heater services page.

Water leak

Pipe Thread Sealants: Teflon Tape and Thread Compound

Pipe thread sealants are not an interesting subject. But if you’re reading this, you’ve realized how important they are. But I’m not going to write an in depth and comprehensive plumbing blog about this dry subject. This isn’t for the apprentice plumber to learn their trade. This article is for the average homeowner just trying to make a plumbing repair. So look further on the internet if you want to win an argument or double check what your plumber recently did. I’m going to explain what you need to know and not all that you can know about thread sealants.

What are thread sealants?

Thread sealants are a product to be applied to a manufacturers thread to assure a tight seal. In plumbing you’ll normally find this on water, drain or gas pipe threads. And before we talk about what they do let’s figure out what basic forms they take.

Teflon tape

pipe thread seal tape
Pipe thread tape sealant

Teflon tape isn’t the correct name for this particular type of thread sealant. But it’s probably the term you’re most familiar with. Thread seal tape is the correct term. Teflon is a brand name. And plumbers have a million terms for just about everything. Thread seal tape normally comes in the form of a 1/2 inch white tape that’s wrapped around a thread multiple times. My preferred brand of thread seal tape is manufactured by Oatey. The type you use matters. But it isn’t used for all threads or connections.

Thread compound

pipe thread compound
Pipe thread compound

Thread compound is the paste version of thread seal tape. It’s very easy to use but can be pretty messy. And it’s usually overused. It was originally yellow. Ol’ yella number 5 was the term we used. But the white teflon based thread compound is what you want. My preferred thread compound is Tplus2 manufactured by Rectorseal.

What do thread sealants do?

Thread sealants aren’t a fix all. And they don’t do as much as you might think. They serve only a few purposes. And can actually create problems if not used properly. Thread sealants do the following:

  • Lubricate threaded joints to allow for a tighter fit.
  • Partially seal any voids.
  • Prevents thread joints from rusting and allows for an easier removal of threaded fittings.

As you can see, they do a few things. And not always all for each joint. Sometimes you just need a threaded fitting to come apart more easily in the future. It doesn’t necessarily have to be leak proof. This is common on the thread joint between a water heater relief valve and it’s threaded drain pipe.

Where to use thread seal tape

Where to use thread seal tape is very much a personal decision. Many plumbers will argue this point. But after being taught in the plumbers union and serving as a residential plumbing technician for an additional 20 years, I’ll tell you my opinion.

As a rule I use thread sealant tape on all threaded fittings that must be air or water tight that do not have an alternative seal on them already. That means that if there’s a rubber o-ring or washer of any sort, I won’t use thread seal tape. It could get in the way of a proper seal. Flare joints are another spot that I won’t put thread seal tape. That includes flared copper water pipe and tubular drain pipes such as p-traps and tailpiece connections. But I never use thread seal tape on gas pipe of any kind…ever. I don’t even use the special tape for gas pipe. I only use thread compound on gas pipe.

Where to use thread compound

You can use thread seal tape and thread compound interchangeably. The only exception to this rule is gas pipe and flare joints. Gas pipe should be joined with thread compound only. Flare joints should be joined with thread compound only. If I were a homeowner and had limited resources I’d just purchase liquid thread compound. You can use it anywhere a do it yourselfer would work.

How to install thread sealants

As I’ve said before, you can use both thread seal tape and thread compound pretty much interchangeably. But I was taught to never take any chances on a leak if you don’t have to. And you never have to. So I follow the guidelines already discussed. But when I use them I do it in a very specific and consistent way.

How to install thread seal tape

When wrapping threads with thread seal tape you begin at the second or third thread. Never the first. This helps with starting a thread connection without cross threading it. You wrap your threads clockwise three times. Clockwise so that the tape won’t unwrap while screwing things together. Three times because any more is really a waste.

How to install thread compound

Install pipe thread compound only on the first and second threads of the male thread only. This will prevent it from getting inside the pipe. If you wipe it into the female connection the compound will be forced into the pipe. If you’re working with gas pipe the compound could get into a gas control valve and foul them badly.

And don’t waste thread compound. Only spread a little bit onto the first and second threads. Any more than that is wasted. It’ll just make a mess.

How this plumber was taught to install thread sealants

When I use thread compound I follow the instructions above. When I use thread sealant tape I use both; always. I wrap the threads three times starting at the second thread. I then wipe thread compound on the first and second thread only. I do this every time; not most of the time. And I don’t get leaks.

When to call a professional

Sometimes a thread will leak no matter what you do. And sometimes you can damage a plumbing appliance or fixture if you improperly apply thread sealants. If it just won’t seal correctly or if you’re dealing with gas pipe just call us. Advocate Master Plumbing will ensure you’ll always speak to a master plumber on the phone. And that same master plumber will come to your home and resolve your plumbing issues. We don’t train our plumbers to sell. We train them to serve our customers.

Drain pipe repair

Bathroom Sink Pop-Up Drain Assembly

The pop-up drain assembly is one of the least understood plumbing accessories. Most bathroom sinks have them. But often they have a drain plug that won’t stay up or a missing drain plug. And the sink always has a toothpaste cap in the drain. And it’s usually because the homeowner doesn’t know how it works.

How does a pop-up drain assembly work?

A pop up assembly is nothing more than a bathroom sink drain plug. My preference is the Gerber brand. For convenience, there’s a linkage under the sink attached to the lift rod. You pull up on the lift rod and the linkage pulls down the plug. When you want to unplug your sink drain you push the lift rod down. But problems do arise.

Problems with the pop-up drain assembly

Pop-up drain problems are common. And most people don’t know how simple they can be to repair. So what are the most common problems?

Sink pop-up won’t work

If you pull up on the lift rod and the nothing happens it means the linkage has pulled apart. Sometimes it’s because the clip holding the horizontal rod and linkage together has just fallen off. But sometimes the tip of the horizontal rod has rusted away and detached from the pop up plug. This is caused by either age or acidic drain cleaners. The only way to fix that is replacing the horizontal rod.

Pop-up sink drain leaks

A bathroom sink leak at the pop-up connection can be a few things.

  • A gasket that leaks can be due to an improperly sealed flange or loose nut.
  • A leaking horizontal rod nut can be a missing pivot seat or gasket or a loose nut.
  • A drain tailpiece leak was either installed incorrectly or needs to be replaced.

Different styles of alternative bathroom sink pop-up drain assemblies

There’s been a lot of plumbing innovation over the years. Bathroom sink drains come with a few different options now. Some of the more common options are:

  • Grid strainers like in convenience stores.
  • Lift & turn sink drain stoppers similar to a bathtub drain.
  • Lastly a push style sink stopper similar to the tub tip-toe stoppers.

Pop-up drain assembly repair and installations

Sink drain repairs and installations can be difficult. It’s a good homeowner diy repair for an intermediate skill level. But I wouldn’t recommend it for beginners. So call your local plumbers in Lees Summit. Call Advocate Master Plumbing. You’ll always speak to a master plumber; not an answering service or dispatcher. And your plumbing technician will be the same master plumber that you spoke with. We won’t sell. We’ll serve you.

Toilets

How Does A Pressure Assist Toilet Work

Since much needed water conservation standards mandated low water flow toilets the pressure assist toilet has stood out as the hallmark of plumbing engineering. It’s simplicity is its strength. Most homeowners in Lee’s Summit are looking for a high efficiency toilet with a larger drain opening. Many are being sold on the idea of a larger drain opening to prevent drain clogs. But there’s another option.

What is a pressure assist toilet?

I often use the analogy of a convenience store bathroom to describe a pressure assist toilet to my plumbing customers. It isn’t exactly correct. Most of those toilets have flushometer valves. That’s a specialty commercial flush valve and a conversation for another time. But they both work on the principle of water pressure for a toilet flush. But, in short, a pressure assist toilet is a toilet that uses a combination of water and pressurized air to flush a toilet. And the people at Flushmate know how to make them.

How do these high efficiency toilets work?

A pressure assist toilet is exactly the same as a standard toilet. The difference is in the tank.

Pressure assist toilet repair, toilet replacement
Standard and Pressure Assist Toilet differences

Instead of stored water in a tank waiting to be pulled by gravity into a bowl there’s an air tight plastic tank. It’s inside the porcelain tank. When water fills the air tight tank there’s trapped air. As the pressurized water fills the air tight tank it pressurizes the air. When the toilet handle is pushed the pressurized air blows the water into the toilet bowl. This velocity is it’s advantage. Instead of gravity and the weight of water creating a siphonic action and pulling water and waste through the toilet trapway it’s high velocity water. Any waste is partially broken up while passing through the trapway due to the waters velocity. This negates the need for a larger trapway.

Who installs and repairs pressure assist toilets?

If you’re tired of using that plunger sitting next to your builder grade standard toilet call us. At Advocate Master Plumbing you get actual master plumbers to come to your home. They understand how to install and repair all high efficiency toilets. They also know how they work and why they work. We live and work here. We won’t sell you. We’ll serve you.

Drain pipe repair

Drain Pipe Repair Like A Plumber Does It

Making a drain pipe repair in your home can sometimes be necessary. Leaking drains are a common occurrence. Kitchen drain leaks, tub drain pipes or cracked main drain pipes are a homeowners nightmare. In this plumbing blog we’re going to discuss how to perform a drain pipe repair like plumbers with plastic pipes.

How to repair a broken or leaking plastic drain pipe like plumbers do

PVC and ABS plastic drain pipes are the most common types of drains in a home. There aren’t many differences between them other than their chemical makeup, color and the glues you use to join them. If you’re repairing an ABS drain pipe you’ll need to use the single stage ABS glue instead of the primer and glue process discussed below. No primer is needed. Otherwise, it’s done exactly the same as PVC plastic pipe repairs.

PVC drain pipe repair

If you find that you have a section of PVC piping that has a leak at a fitting or a crack you can easily repair it yourself. When a plumbing customer calls with a cracked kitchen drain pipe or a broken clean out drain tee the plumbing portion of it is pretty straight forward. Remember all you have to do is cut out the cracked pipe or leaking fitting and rebuild it exactly.

How to cut PVC pipe when making a drain repair

PVC drain pipe repair
How to cut PVC drain pipe

You do this by using your cut out portion of damaged PVC pipe as a guide. Measure each piece of pipe you removed. Then cut new pieces to the same lengths. If you’re going to use glued couplings remember to subtract a quarter of an inch to make up for the stops in the PVC couplings. If you’re using rubber couplings with band clamps you won’t need to subtract a quarter inch.

To cut PVC plastic pipe you can use a saw or power saw. I’ve used a chop saw or table saw at times. Clean the burrs on the cuts. Fittings will be the same dimensions. So just purchase the exact same fittings at your local home store.

How to rebuild a cut-out portion of damaged PVC pipe and glue it

Assembling drain pipes
Mark the repair before assembling it

You always want to “dry-fit” the pipe fittings and pipe by assembling it before gluing it. Arrange each fitting at the correct angle and insert pipe cuts completely. Measure your assembled repair and compare it with the cut out portion. If it matches correctly make a one inch mark on the fittings and pipe while assembled so that you’ll know how they are to be assembled exactly.

Disassemble your repair. Always use clear PVC primer and medium set clear PVC glue when working with plastic PVC pipe. Apply the primer inside each fitting and on the outside of each piece of pipe. Only primer to the point that they will be attached. And I will normally be sure to pass over the plastic at least three times to be sure that it’s clean and free of debris. I also like to primer and glue the face of the cut pipe.

gluing PVC drain pipe
3 rotations on pipe & fittings when applying glue & primer

Then apply glue to each pipe ene and pipe fitting to be attached. Apply glue only to one connection at a time. And then make your solvent weld joint immediately. Insert the pipe into the fitting fully and twist the pipe about a quarter turn until your marks line up. Hold them in place for about 10 seconds so they don’t push apart. Move on to the next connection. Continue until you’ve completely assembled your repair.

Install your assembled PVC pipe repair

At this point I normally use a glued PVC pipe coupling on one end of the newly assembled pipe and fittings and a rubber coupling on the other. I glue a coupling on one end of my assembled pipe repair. Then I slide my rubber repair coupling fully over the other end of the assembled repair. If the pipe is too short for the rubber coupling to go on all the way I slide it all the way onto the pipe that it’ll be attached to. Then primer and glue the other end of the standing pipe and glue your assembled repair. Quickly push them together. Position the pipe repair and slide the rubber coupling so that it’s half on each pipe. Tighten the bands with a screwdriver or 5/16″ nut driver.

Rubber coupling drain pipe transition
Rubber coupling transition

When to hire a professional plumber

If the idea of making a plastic drain pipe repair yourself is too intimidating then call Advocate Master Plumbing. Our technicians are all master plumbers. And they are all union trained and live and work in Lee’s Summit, MO. Let us diagnose your leaking drain pipe correctly and give you all the information to make an informed decision. We’re not here to sell you. We’re here to serve you.